FAQs

Contact our customer service department and they will be happy to send you a copy of the instruction sheet and exploded view drawing.   

Oatey offers three styles of repair flanges for this application.  The first is the No-Caulk cast iron repair flange which comes in two depths. Once the old flange is removed and cast iron pipe is cleaned off, these flanges will slide over the vertical cast iron drain pipe. The flat side of the gasket should be facing down and resting on the inside bottom lip of the flange. Tightening the four bolts in even rotation will compress the gasket against the outside of the pipe, and create a water tight seal. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor. The second is our PVC or ABS Twist-N-Set repair flange which inserts into the vertical cast iron drain pipe after the old flange is removed. The gasket tightens as the flange is turned in a clockwise rotation. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor. The third option is the PVC or ABS Replacement closet repair flange which also inserts into the vertical cast iron drain pipe after the old flange is removed. This flange is sealed by the tightening of three stainless steel bolts in even rotation. This compresses the gasket between the outside of the flange tail piece, and the inside of the cast iron drain. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor. All flanges must be screwed into the subfloor before setting the toilet bowl into place, this sometimes will require drilling pilot holes through the finished flooring.      

Liquilock is not recommended for use in fish tanks. The crystals will cling to the glass, plastic corners, or seams and are difficult to rinse out of the tank completely. If these crystals remain in the tank and consumed by the fish, the fish will most likely perish. 

You can use Liquilock when replacing an old water heater. Liquilock will work great to encapsulate the sludge and remaining water in the bottom of the tank after it is drained. Once you have drained the old tank and are ready to carry it out of the home, close the water heater drain or plug the drain hole. Pour 3 packages of Liquilock into the tank through the hot water inlet side (no dip tube) and after five minutes you can remove the tank from the home without splashing and spilling.

1 package of Liquilock will work for a 1.6 gallon toilet and 2 packages will be necessary for a 3.5 gallon toilet. Remember to shut the water off and flush the toilet before adding the Liquilock to the water in the toilet bowl.    

No. Liquilock is only approved for use on plumbing fixtures supplied with potable water.

Liquilock can be left in a toilet for up to 1 week (5days) without any issues. If you plan on storing the toilet for longer periods of time or if it is extremely hot and dry where the toilet will be stored, wrap the toilet in a 55 gallon trash bag to keep the Liquilock from crusting over.

Yes. Liquilock is biodegradable.

You should make sure that your wax seal is between 70°F and 110°F at the time of installation. This will give you the best compression for a water tight seal.

The shelf life depends on how the product is stored. If a wax seal is stored in a dry location exposed to temperatures between 40°F and 110°F, the shelf life is 5 years from date of manufacture.

No. Wax seals made with bees wax would be too expensive and would not have any benefits or advantages over our current products.

It is always important to first set the toilet bowl in place before installing the wax seal; this will confirm that the toilet bolts are aligned properly, and the floor can be checked for levelness in case the bowl will need to be shimmed during installation.